Wednesday, June 24, 2009

The Cape, Clams & Columbus.

‘Live Free or Die’ – it doesn’t seem like a normal slogan to represent a state on a licence plate. Here at home, we’re used to more conservative state licence plates like ‘Garden State’ or ‘Nation’s Capital’ so you can only imagine why I felt in photo-worthy when I discovered New Hampshire’s state plate telling me to Live Free...Or Die.But that’s just the sort of attitude you’ll encounter all over America. And yes, it gets tiresome. Especially if you’re visiting D.C. and wish for a cultural exploration of the Holocaust Museum, but instead are bombarded with unrelenting American bias about their involvement in World War II. Maybe you should expect it in D.C. though, what with the Bill of Rights and Declaration of Independence on display in the National Archives, The White House and Capitol Building – these monuments symbolise American liberty and freedom; and those around them won’t be afraid to tell you.
I was surprised though to see such an ‘Americanism’ on the licence plate of New Hampshire. Tucked neatly away in the heart of New England on the East Coast, this part of American is revered as more conservative than other parts of the country. Known mostly for their old money and lavish families and estates, the New England area, including of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, is a far cry from the rednecks and plastics we often associate Americans with. I can’t boast that I’m an expert on the whole area, but I do fancy myself quite a Massachusetts buff. In fact, I’d go even as far as to say I’m ‘half local’.


I’ve learnt over the years that for a lot of people, travelling and site seeing is about ticking off a list – a certain list that over a period of time becomes known as the things that one “has to do”. And I’m not saying I haven’t found myself going over that list. Only last month I was in Chicago and walked into the Field Museum, only to be highly disappointed and felt I had to stay a look at everything because it’s something everyone says you “have-to-do”. And so following this trend, when most people venture to the East Coast, they fall back on that same sort of list.


I plan to revise the list. So for all those thinking of America and going East, listen up. Do New York, do D.C. Do whatever. I don’t care, as long as you go New England (New Yorkers will try to tell you they are part of New England – don’t listen to them). I’m not telling you that you must buy all Red Sox and Patriots paraphernalia or that you must eat clam chowder morning, noon and night, but if you do, you won’t be disappointed.


Boston is a must. There’s no two ways about it. Walk along the Charles and spend an afternoon on the wooden pontoons that jut into the river. Go for July 4th and walk the Freedom Trail and finish off with spectacular fireworks over the Charles. Walk over Harvard Bridge and through Cambridge to Harvard Square and watch the tan pants/navy blazer lemmings walk between classes. Visit Arnold Arboretum and sit beneath the trees; you’ll think you’re in Central Park. Go shopping along Newbury Street. Walk down Commonwealth Ave and Marlborough St and look at the old brownstones before sitting in the Public Garden studying the spring flowers (just don’t get a ride on the swan boats). Go in winter and skate on the frog pond in Boston Common. Head to North End and eat at Pizzeria Regina (16 inch and root beer is a must). Take a day to explore the MFA and Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum and a walk back through the Fens. Take the night off from wining and dining and head to Fenway Park for beer and hot dogs to watch a Sox game (or at least do a tour). Eat tapas and sangria at Tapeo, amazing Mayan at Casa Romero, the best burgers at Bukowski’s and fabulous Japanese at Duzo. A drink at The Top of the Hub is a must overlooking Boston. For a great morning run, go along the Charles, over the Longfellow Bridge through Cambridge and back over Harvard Bridge.Don’t forget Penny Candy Store lollies and Salt Water Taffy, Boston Chowder with oyster crackers and Paradise Bakery chippers.


If you feel like renting a car, hit the road and head out of Boston. Salem is a bit of fun to learn about witch trials and burning people at the stake. There’s also a huge chuck of history on cod fishing in New England and it’s also just a nice seaside town. Cape Cod and Provincetown. Think Hamptons, only better. If it was good enough for JFK it’s good enough for us.Head to Plymouth as well. Here you can buy Plymouth Rock Candy (oh so good) but it’s also where Columbus landed in 1620. In fact, the actual Plymouth Rock is still there for you to take a photo of (I did any way...). Here you can also visit a replica Pilgrim village. A little kitsch but kinda of fun.


And a final personal recommendation. It’s totally off the map and probably not something that will ever make it onto the list, but maybe that’s a good thing. My travels havens thus remain untouched. But you haven’t seen Massachusetts beauty until you’ve been to Duxbury. Lush green gardens and wide quiet roads. Huge America weatherboard homes. There’s also a great cranberry bog. Most importantly there is a long beautiful beach and on the other side is mud. And you know what that means? Quahoging, mucking, clamming. Whatever you want to call it, collect your own clams and go home and cook your own, fresh clam chowder. Now how New England is that?


- Georgia Middleton, guest writer, http://georgialoveblog.blogspot.com/

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